The Ultimate Guide to External Flash in Photography

Introduction

Using external flash can elevate your photography to the next level by providing the ability to control lighting in various environments.

Artificial lighting can seem daunting at first, but with the right understanding of flash principles and techniques, it can become a powerful tool in your photography toolkit. This article will guide you through selecting a flash and utilizing it effectively to achieve beautiful lighting in your photos.

Finally, practical tips for working with one, two, or even three off-camera flashes will be provided to help you create stunning photographs that captivate viewers.

Let’s dive in.

What Is External Flash in Photography?

An external flash (also known as an off-camera flash) refers to a speedlight, which is a compact, battery-operated flash unit designed to enhance your photography. These units are typically small, portable, and independent from your camera.

Unlike the built-in pop-up flash found in most cameras, which can produce unflattering results by illuminating the subject head-on, external flashes allow for creative control over direction, intensity, and quality of light. By mounting the flash on your camera’s hot shoe or positioning it on a light stand, you can manipulate the light to achieve the desired effect.

It’s essential to understand that off-camera flashes differ from studio strobes, or monolights, which offer significantly more power but lack portability and often require a power source, making them less practical for mobile photographers.

For both beginners and professionals prioritizing portability, investing in an external flash (or several) is a smart choice. These flashes provide substantial power at a reasonable price and are easily transportable, allowing you to adapt your lighting setup to any environment.

What Can You Do With a Flash?

Embarking on your flash journey can be incredibly rewarding. A single speedlight can dramatically enhance your photography, often leading to that enlightening moment when you realize the multitude of creative possibilities it offers—all while remaining simple to execute.

Here are a few key capabilities you can achieve with an external flash:

1. Control Over Ambient Light: You can capture natural-looking shots regardless of ambient light conditions. Whether shooting at dawn, dusk, or during the day, you can rely on your flash to ensure quality results. With a powerful light source under your control, the ambient light’s quality becomes less critical. You can effectively eliminate ambient light by moving to a darker area, granting you full control over the lighting.

2. Create High-Key Backgrounds: You can easily create high-key backgrounds. These ultra-white backgrounds convey a fresh, modern appeal, as exemplified here:

3. Achieve Low-Key Backgrounds: You can easily create low-key backgrounds that produce deep black backgrounds, as demonstrated here:

4. Flattering Portrait Lighting: A flash can create beautifully flattering portrait light. You can sculpt features from various angles, creating dramatic light, soft light, rim light, and more.

This list is not exhaustive, but it illustrates the power of flash and the creative potential it unlocks. Now, let’s discuss how to choose the right flash for your needs.

Choosing the Perfect Off-Camera Flash

When selecting an off-camera flash, consider the following factors to ensure you make an informed decision:

1. Price: Price is a primary consideration. While speedlights are generally more affordable than professional-quality lenses, they may still represent a significant investment. Budget options exist, but these often compromise on build quality and longevity.

2. Starting Slow: Starting with a couple of budget flashes can be beneficial. While they may not last as long as high-end speedlights, they provide an opportunity to explore and confirm your interest in flash photography. You wouldn’t want to invest heavily in equipment if you’re uncertain about your commitment to flash photography!

3. Power and Guide Number: Once you’re comfortable with the basics, consider upgrading to higher-end flashes. Power, represented by the guide number, is a crucial feature. The guide number indicates the flash’s maximum brightness. In a small studio, ultra-bright flashes may not be necessary. However, in outdoor settings or events where proximity to the subject is limited, a high guide number is essential.

4. Flexibility: Flexibility is also important. Some flashes lack tilt or swivel capabilities, which restricts your lighting options. Look for a flash that allows for these adjustments.

5. TTL Metering Consideration: Do you need through-the-lens (TTL) metering? TTL metering connects your flash to your camera’s exposure meter, allowing them to collaborate for proper exposure settings. This contrasts with manual flash use, where you independently set flash power without camera assistance.

While TTL flashes tend to be pricier, many photographers, including myself, prefer manual flashes for greater exposure accuracy once mastered. I’ll explain how to manually set exposure later in this article.

6. Compatibility: Finally, consider flash compatibility. If TTL metering is essential, ensure the flash is compatible with your camera. If using a wireless trigger (discussed in the next section), check for compatibility between your flash and the trigger. If you wish to operate the flash without a wireless trigger, ensure it has wireless compatibility with your camera.

Now that you understand how to choose a flash, let’s explore essential flash accessories that will enhance your off-camera flash experience.

Choosing the Perfect Flash Accessories

While you can purchase a flash, mount it to your camera, and call it a day, this approach limits your creative potential. Most exciting flash photography involves using the flash in various positions, rather than keeping it mounted to your camera.

To maximize your creativity, consider these essential accessories:

1. Lighting Stand: A lighting stand functions like a tripod for a flash, enabling you to place your flash in various locations—whether in front of, to the right of, left of, or behind your subject. Quality lighting stands are available at a reasonable price, typically under $20.

2. Flash Mount: A flash mount attaches to the lighting stand, allowing you to secure your flash. Many mounts also include umbrella holders for additional versatility.

3. Remote Trigger: A flash remote lets you trigger your flash from your camera when the flash is positioned on a light stand. Depending on your camera brand and flash type, you may not need one—your camera can activate the flash directly when you press the shutter button. However, if your camera doesn’t support wireless flash triggering, I recommend obtaining a flash remote. These devices typically mount to your camera’s hot shoe and activate the flash when you press the shutter.

4. Reflectors: Another recommended accessory is a reflector. A 5-in-1 option from Neewer offers great flexibility:

Reflectors bounce light back onto your subject. The 5-in-1 variety also includes features like a diffuser, which can soften light when held in front of your flash.

5. Flash Modifiers: The final category of flash accessories you’ll need are flash modifiers. These are crucial in off-camera flash photography. At a minimum, invest in one modifier to soften and shape your light. For beginners, I recommend starting with a white umbrella. If you’re willing to invest a bit more, consider an umbrella that supports multiple setups:

Flash lighting lacks finesse without something between the flash and your subject; modifiers help achieve softer, more flattering lighting.

The Fundamentals of External Flash

Now that you’ve learned about flashes and accessories, how do you create stunning shots with a flash? This section will guide you in getting your flash up and running to capture breathtaking images. I will also discuss the various types of light you can create with a flash.

Let’s begin with these foundational principles:

Setting Up Your Flash to Capture Photos (Manually)

Using your flash straight out of the box is relatively straightforward. First, turn on your flash and configure it to work with your setup. If you’re utilizing a flash remote, attach it to your camera and ensure it’s set to trigger the flash. When triggering the flash via your camera, verify that everything functions correctly.

Understanding the key feature of your flash is crucial:

Flash Power

Flash Power

Flash power refers to the brightness level of your flash and is typically expressed in fractions, ranging from 1/128 to 1/1. A setting of 1/128 indicates low power, resulting in a dim flash, while 1/1 signifies high power, producing a very bright flash.

Adjust flash power using the controls on your flash or via the flash remote. Remember that halving or doubling the power changes brightness by a factor of two. For example, moving from 1/2 to 1/1 doubles the brightness, while transitioning from 1/64 to 1/128 halves it.

Now, let’s explore how to use brightness effectively for perfect exposure:

Exposing With Flash

Exposure with flash is similar to standard exposure with any camera—except now you have an added variable to consider alongside aperture, shutter speed, and ISO: flash power.

I recommend selecting your camera settings in Manual mode first, then maintaining these settings. Adjust exposure solely through flash power.

Shutter speed is nearly irrelevant when using flash since the only light that matters is the light from the flash. Hence, set your shutter speed to your camera’s sync speed (typically around 1/200s) and leave it unchanged.

With flash, you should have ample light, allowing you to set your ISO to the lowest value (usually ISO 100 or ISO 200). Furthermore, you don’t need to maximize aperture since flash provides enough illumination. Select your aperture based on your image’s needs. If unsure, starting with an aperture of f/8 is advisable.

Your settings should resemble the following: a shutter speed of around 1/200s, ISO 100, and aperture f/8.

Now, set the final exposure variable: flash power. This process is quite straightforward once you grasp it. Set the power level to 1/16 and take a shot. Evaluate the result. If it’s too dark, increase the flash power to 1/8; if too bright, decrease to 1/32. Experiment until achieving your desired effect (fine-tuning the power setting with smaller increments is also possible).

Not too complex, right?

Types of Flash Lighting

As you delve into flash photography, you’ll frequently encounter discussions about different types of flash lighting. Flash photographers typically distinguish between hard light and soft light.

Hard light generates high contrast, creating sharp transitions between well-lit and shadowed areas. In contrast, soft light results in more gentle transitions, with shadows appearing less harsh.

A naked flash—an unmodified flash—produces hard light, which can create a striking, high-contrast appearance. However, soft light is often preferred by flash photographers, as it provides more flattering results.

Soft light can be achieved by employing modifiers on your flash. Remember that larger modifiers produce softer light, making them essential for creating more appealing images.

Flash Modifiers Explained

Many common and uncommon flash modifiers exist. This section will cover essential options that every beginner should know while you can explore specific modifiers as they become relevant to your work.

1. Flash Umbrellas: Positioned in front of your flash, umbrellas allow light to pass through the fabric or reflect off it. A white translucent umbrella softens light by diffusing it, while a silver umbrella acts as a reflector, producing a punchier look.

Translucent umbrellas are among the most basic flash modifiers and are excellent for beginners. They provide a beautifully soft look, but may spill light, making them less ideal for scenes demanding precise light direction.

2. Softboxes: These cover the flash with a white (diffusing) material, resulting in nicely directed light, although they may not provide the same softness as umbrellas. Larger softboxes/diffusers can create beautifully soft light, available in stripbox (tall and rectangular) or octagonal shapes:

3. Grids and Snoots: Grids are useful for reducing light spread but do little to soften flash harshness. They can create spotlight effects or prevent light from illuminating the background. Snoots serve a similar purpose by narrowing the beam of light for selective effects.

In summary, a flash umbrella is an ideal starting point for beginners, offering the opportunity to experiment with soft light at a low cost while yielding stunning results. Softboxes, grids, and snoots have their applications but are best explored once you have mastered the basics of flash photography.

Creating Directional Light With a Flash

Now that you understand how to modify a speedlight, let’s explore its practical applications. I will first discuss various types of lighting and then share common flash lighting setups.

Ready to learn about different lighting techniques? Here we go!

Frontlight

The most fundamental type of flash lighting is direct frontlight. This setup occurs when your flash is positioned directly on top of your camera as you shoot, fully illuminating your subject’s front.

This technique leaves no shadows on prominent features while casting heavy shadows in crevices, as illustrated here:

As you can see, frontlight lacks depth, so it should generally be avoided. A more favorable option is high frontlight, where the flash is positioned above the subject and angled downward. This technique can sculpt a subject’s cheekbones for an appealing effect and is often combined with a light source from below to fill shadows under the chin, eyes, and nose.

45-Degree Lighting

45-degree lighting is a common technique in portrait photography. This setup involves positioning your flash off-camera at a 45-degree angle to your subject, either to the right or left.

This technique beautifully illuminates your subject while adding depth through shadows:

You can also achieve a ‘window light’ effect by placing the light above the subject, a technique often referred to as 45-45 lighting.

Sidelight

Sidelight originates from the side of your subject, creating a dramatic effect, as shown here:

This technique casts strong shadows on one side while illuminating the other, adding drama and depth to your photos. Sidelit photos often feature dark backgrounds since the flash light falls off behind the subject (though illuminating the background with a second flash is always an option).

Various degrees of sidelighting exist—for instance, complete sidelight (known as split lighting) can be utilized, as seen in the previous photo.

Alternatively, you can position the light further out for a less intense shadow effect:

Regardless of the sidelighting technique employed, it adds drama and depth to your photos, making it a popular choice in cinema.

Backlight (Plus Rim Light)

Backlight is an intriguing type of directional light with diverse applications. It is positioned behind the subject and can create various distinct effects.

For instance, placing the light directly behind or slightly off to the side of the subject produces a rim light effect, as illustrated here:

Rim light is striking and can serve as a standalone effect or enhance depth by making your subject stand out against a dark background. You can additionally create a bright, high-key effect by placing a large sheet of white paper behind your subject and directing your flash toward it. This technique works well for product shots and portraits that require a bright, cheerful ambiance.

Finally, you can position a flash behind a transparent subject to create a cool outlined effect, avoiding reflections. This is particularly useful for glass subjects, where reflections can be problematic.

Common Flash Lighting Setups: Practical Techniques for Amazing Flash Photos

While some flash photographers work exclusively with one light aimed directly at the subject, it’s common practice to create shots with light coming from different directions, often utilizing multiple flashes. You might combine 45-degree lighting with sidelight, backlight with 45-degree lighting, or explore various combinations.

Here are some practical lighting setups to try:

One-Flash Lighting Setups

If you only have one off-camera flash, don’t worry! You can still produce many stunning photos. While incorporating a reflector is advisable, it’s not a strict necessity.

Let’s discuss one of the most effective one-light setups:

45-45 Lighting

This straightforward setup looks fantastic: Position the flash 45 degrees up and 45 degrees to the side. This setup is a great default when unsure how to light a particular subject, and you can always fine-tune the flash position afterward.

45-45 lighting yields photos like this:

This setup produces pleasing shadows without being overly dramatic or wild. If you use an umbrella with 45-45 lighting and shoot close to the background, it will be visible. You can avoid this by using cardboard to block the light behind your subject or by moving the subject farther away from the background, resulting in a pitch-black backdrop for a cool low-key effect.

Split Lighting

Split lighting entails positioning your flash directly in line with your subject, slightly to your right as the photographer. This technique yields dramatic, shadowy results, as illustrated here:

As seen, split lighting divides the subject in two! If you use an umbrella, the flash may illuminate the backdrop, depending on your subject’s position. To avoid this, simply move your subject further away to create a beautiful low-key image.

If you find split lighting too intense but still want a dramatic effect, consider adding a reflector on the opposite side. This can enhance shadows without compromising the overall image.

Rim Lighting

Rim lighting is achieved by placing the light directly behind your subject or slightly off to the side for a silhouetted look:

However, note that rim lighting differs from typical silhouette images. In rim lighting, the background remains completely dark while only the subject is outlined. This unconventional approach can create dramatic portraits or intriguing product shots. Rim-lit images can be enhanced with colored gels to create various rim colors, adding a creative flair to your images.

Adjust the rim effect by positioning the flash directly behind or slightly to one side of the subject, allowing for either a subtle or more pronounced rim light.

Two-Flash Lighting Setups

While it’s entirely feasible to produce stunning, professional-quality images with a single light, adding a second light can enhance your results. Two lights can beautifully illuminate your subject while adding depth, dimension, and other creative effects.

Typically, the second light serves as a supporting light. You can start with a one-light setup (as described above) and then add a second light for stronger results. Even without two lights, you can often simulate a second light using a reflector (store-bought or homemade). Just be mindful of your positioning.

Here are a few specific two-light setups that yield fantastic results:

Clamshell Lighting

Clamshell lighting offers a striking, visually appealing look that’s simple to achieve. Here’s an example of a clamshell portrait:

Notice the strong lighting on the subject’s face and the absence of shadows under the chin? This is the power of clamshell lighting.

The clamshell setup is primarily used for portraits. First, position one light above the subject, directly in front, angled downward. (This setup alone is known as butterfly lighting or paramount lighting, frequently used in Hollywood to light actors.)

Next, bring a second light under the subject, pointed upward. This acts as the fill light and should be weaker than the main light; the aim is to illuminate areas under the subject’s nose and chin without creating reverse shadows. You can adjust the relative power of the two lights, but it’s crucial the fill light remains dimmer than the main light (or at least equal) to capture stunning clamshell lighting shots!

As mentioned earlier, you don’t always need two lights to execute a two-light setup. For clamshell lighting, you can often substitute a reflector for the second light. Position the reflector below the subject, angled upward, and experiment with different distances. To effectively eliminate shadows under the nose and chin, you may need to place the reflector quite close, although keeping it a few feet back can yield interesting results as well.

45-45 Plus Fill Light

Many two-light setups follow this pattern: Begin with your main light (using 45-45 lighting, loop lighting, Rembrandt lighting, split lighting, or other techniques). Add a fill light on the opposite side of your subject.

This configuration is highly versatile. It’s suitable for portraits but also works well for still life, product shots, and more, making it a valuable lighting setup to have in your toolkit.

Here’s how it works: Position one light at a 45-degree angle, aiming downwards and off to the side, to illuminate your subject using the 45-45 angle discussed in the one-light setup section. Next, add a lower-powered fill light on the opposite side of your subject. While you can experiment with fill light placement, begin by positioning it perpendicular to the camera lens (hitting your subject from the side, akin to split lighting).

This technique fills in hard shadows created by the 45-45 lighting, resulting in a soft, appealing look. As with clamshell lighting, ensure the fill light is weaker than the main light to avoid unwanted shadows. By adjusting the fill light strength, you can achieve various effects, from a dramatic shot (low-strength fill light) to a bright image (high-strength fill light).

Make sense?

Cross Lighting

Cross lighting is simple to understand, remarkably adaptable, and impressively versatile. Here are some examples:

And another:

Cross lighting entails illuminating your subject with two opposing light sources. For example, you might position one light directly in front of your subject and another directly behind. Alternatively, you could place one light beneath your subject and another above, resulting in remarkable versatility.

Several popular cross-lighting setups can be utilized repeatedly for consistent results. First, the 45-45 cross light involves positioning one light at the 45-45 angle and the second light opposite it, just behind your subject. This arrangement provides soft illumination while the second light creates a beautiful rim light effect, adding depth.

Second, the “athlete” setup is commonly used for photographing intense athletes, aiming to create a fierce subject. In this case, remove modifiers from your lights for a hard-edged look. Position one light to the right of your subject (so its beam is perpendicular to the lens) and the other light to the left, also perpendicular to the lens (opposite the first light). This setup results in an impactful shot, as seen here:

This setup is not recommended for family portraits, but it works exceptionally well for gritty, intense photoshoots.

Subject Plus Background

To make your portraits and still-life shots pop, you need to illuminate the background. This distinction can transform your shots:

Compared to this:

Notice the enhanced depth in the second shot? This is due to the subject-background separation created by subtle background lighting!

For a straightforward two-light subject-background setup, start by moving your main subject away from the background so that no light from your primary strobe reaches it. Then configure your main light using any of the one-light setups discussed earlier, such as 45-45 lighting, split lighting, or rim lighting.

Direct your second light at the background. The power of this light will influence the darkness of the backdrop, allowing you to utilize a low-powered flash for a dark gray background or a high-powered flash for a white background. The angle of the second light will also determine the effect; shining from the side will create a gradient, while positioning it behind the subject will produce a uniform circle.

Different light sources can alter the background’s appearance. Using a snoot creates a controlled splash of light, while a softbox or stripbox yields a softer, broader background.

Unfortunately, this two-light setup cannot be achieved with a single light and a reflector; two lights are indispensable. However, once you experiment with this setup, you’ll realize the investment is worthwhile.

Three-Flash Lighting Setups

For the most professional lighting configurations, I highly recommend investing in three lights. While setups with four or five lights exist, three is a solid number for complex lighting that won’t break the bank.

As you will see shortly, three-light setups typically involve targeting specific areas of the scene. In other words, three lights are rarely all directed at the model. Instead, distribute one or two lights on the model, one or two on the background, and one or two on the model’s rim.

Got it? Let’s explore some effective three-light setups!

Subject Plus Two Background Lights

For a three-light setup, position one light to illuminate your subject, while using the remaining two lights to enhance the background. This technique adds depth and interest to your photographs, creating an engaging composition.

1. Main Light: Position your main light to highlight the subject. You can use any of the one-light setups discussed earlier, such as 45-45 lighting or split lighting.

2. Background Lights: Use the two background lights to add dimension. You can position them at different heights or angles to create a gradient or a more uniform light across the background. This will help separate the subject from the background and add visual interest.

Experiment with the positioning and power of the background lights to achieve the desired look, whether you want a subtle effect or a more pronounced separation between the subject and background.

This three-light configuration can be adapted for various photography styles, from portraits to product shots, allowing for creative flexibility in your lighting design.

Three-Light Portrait Setup

For a classic three-light portrait setup, follow these steps:

1. Key Light: Position your main light (key light) at a 45-degree angle from the subject, slightly above the subject’s eye level to create flattering shadows on the face.

2. Fill Light: Place the fill light on the opposite side of the key light to soften shadows, reducing the contrast created by the key light. The fill light should be less powerful than the key light to maintain some shadow detail.

3. Rim Light: Finally, position a rim light behind the subject, directed towards the subject to create a separation effect. This light adds a pleasing halo effect around the subject, enhancing depth and dimension in the portrait.

Experiment with the power and positioning of each light to create the desired mood and effect in your portraits. This three-light setup is a versatile choice for various styles and subjects.

Final Tips for Mastering Off-Camera Flash

As you practice and refine your off-camera flash techniques, keep these essential tips in mind:

• Practice, Practice, Practice: The more you experiment with different setups and lighting conditions, the more comfortable and skilled you will become in using off-camera flash.
• Review Your Shots: After each session, review your images to identify what worked well and what could be improved. This will help you build your skills over time.
• Seek Inspiration: Look at the work of other photographers who excel in flash photography. Analyze their lighting setups and try to replicate their effects in your own work.
• Stay Open to Feedback: Share your work with fellow photographers or mentors and seek constructive feedback. This can provide valuable insights and help you grow as a photographer.

In conclusion, mastering off-camera flash can significantly enhance your photography, providing the ability to control light creatively and effectively. With the right techniques, equipment, and practice, you can elevate your images and capture stunning photographs that resonate with your audience.

Now, get out there, practice, and let your creativity shine with the power of off-camera flash!